While local agricultural fields are still lying dormant (witness the barrenness of our two favorite seasonal food scroll-over maps at Epicurious and the New York State Agmarket, it’s getting pretty near Go Time for foragers. When you see clumps of onion grass cresting above your neatly trimmed lawn, it means that tender, mildly garlicky ramps are sprouting in local woodlands. Ramps, also known as wild leeks, are a member of the Allium family, and are a close relative to onion grass, chives, leeks, and scallions. In fact, they look a lot like scallions, but have flat, maroon-veined leaves instead of hollow stalks. They’re beloved by chefs and foodies for their haunting, leeky/garlicky depth, but we love ramps as the first whisper of seasonal treats to follow.
