Finger Lickin’… Okay
A taste of the South in Pelham
Yvonne’s Southern Cuisine in Pelham has much to recommend it: an extensive menu of authentic soul-food, the seductive Ethereal Jazz Quartet that plays on Friday and Saturday evenings, the photos hanging on the walls of hallowed African-American entertainers such as Billie Holiday and Miles Davis (as well as Allan Houston and Mary J. Blige who have dined here), and the ever-present host and namesake, Yvonne, who watches over it all.
The food lives up to the setting in many cases; with a few exceptions, including one especially glaring one. Yvonne’s “famous” Alabama fried chicken falls far short of its self-proclaimed “signature” status. Not moist. Not crunchy. And not enough herbs and spices. Another entrée blunder was the jerk chicken, which was not just blackened, but burnt.
Making up for the disappointing chicken dishes were the fried catfish, and the sweet and saucy baby-back ribs, with succulent meat that fell off the bone. There are other classic Southern dishes—barbecued short ribs, brown-gravy-smothered turkey, pork chops—and somewhat less classic, pig feet and oxtails. Yvonne’s also offers chitterlings, the small intestines of a pig, which I sampled. Suffice it to say, chitterlings are an acquired taste.
You don’t have to acquire a taste for the delicious sides however (two come with each entrée), with such homey favorites as candied yams, creamy plantain chunks, red rice with a kick of chili, and flavorful black-eyed peas.
Dessert is a must at Yvonne’s. The banana pudding here is a silky treat that tempted me to order another. Fortunately I resisted, so that I could help devour my companions’ irresistible “death by chocolate” and tinted red velvet cake.
Situated in an inviting red brick house, Yvonne’s is a good bet for Southern cuisine. Just skip the fried chicken and have extra dessert.
YVONNE’S SOUTHERN CUISINE
503 Fifth Ave., Pelham
(914) 738-2005
HOURS:
Tue. to Thurs., 8:30 am-10 pm
Fri. to Sat., 8:30 am-11 pm
Sun., 8:30 am-8 pm
PRICES:
Appetizers: $10-$11
Entrees: $14-$22
Desserts: $5-$6
