R5 Restaurant Review: Globe Bar & Grill

Well-rounded world-class menu with universal appeal

Fire and spice and (almost) everything nice in Larchmont

 

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The entrance to Globe Bar & Grill is stridently hip, but don’t be put off—it’s much more comfortable the minute you’re seated. In fact, the restaurant does an especially good job, in both the menu and the décor, of balancing sophisticated style with accessibility.

 

From the dimly lit front entrance, a long hallway lined with glass-fronted wine storage hints at the large wine cellar—which includes, fittingly, wines from all over the globe. The food is more geographically delineated than the wine: Most dishes have a strong Italian foundation, with touches of influence from other lands.

 

Begin your meal in the lively dining room as Italians might—snacking on a bowl of the mildly spicy, marinated olives. Not only is the olive assortment lovely, but the little bit of heat will introduce you to the chef’s proclivity for seasoning with spicy bite. The food at Globe is not universally spicy; heat is used with discretion unless a dish is designed to be forcefully hot.

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Anything “diavola,” for example, should, by definition, have a substantial kick to it, as in the sweet, tiny mussels alla diavola, which get their punch from habanero chiles.

 

On a recent visit, a special of linguine with seafood “fra diavolo” had a similar kick, gracefully balanced in a light tomato and seafood broth. Best of all, this dish met the challenge it poses to all restaurant kitchens: getting several types of seafood to the table without over- or undercooking when each requires a separate cooking time. The two large shrimp, a lobster claw and tail, mussels and calamari, were infused with flavor and cooked to tender perfection. This is a clear signal the kitchen is paying close attention to every plate.

 

It’s a pity the service isn’t as attentive. The inexperienced waiter we had on another visit lurked around us like a boa draped on our necks until we ordered. Once our order came, though, we practically had to send a search team to look for him—our food was cold. Not lukewarm, but cold. After we finally sent it back, it was returned overcooked. 

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I can only imagine what a dish I enjoyed might have tasted like had it been made with intense, tart blood oranges as described on the menu. But the seared scallops were sweet and tender, and the dish with its light, bright bursts of flavors from the shaved fennel, sweet scallops and citrus, was lovely when made with ordinary oranges.

 

Beef carpaccio, served drizzled with truffle oil and topped with shaved Parmigiano, was even better than described, thanks to the heady aroma and flavor of a very generous pour of the truffle oil. Another starter not to miss is the grilled octopus with meltingly sweet cipollini “onions.” Among our favorite entrées was the cod with caponata topping—the topping had an alluring aroma and flavor, thanks to well-balanced seasoning, eggplant, tomato and basil oil, and the fish was once again cooked to just the right degree of doneness.

 

Globe offers a wide range of dishes, including pizzas from a wood-burning oven and meatless entrées, as well as an ever-changing selection of interesting wines poured by the glass.

 

GLOBE BAR & GRILL

1879 Palmer Ave., Larchmont

(914) 833-8600

 

HOURS:

Lunch, Mon. to Sat. 12-4 pm

inner, Mon. to Thurs. and Sun. 4-10 pm, Fri. and Sat. 4-11 pm

Brunch, Sun. 11 am- 4 pm

 

Appetizers: $8-$13

Entrées: $14-$31

Desserts: $6.50-$8.50

 

Our CEOs & Business Leaders Golf Outing is August 5!

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