Hot Plates | January 5, 2009

Forget the sugary, wan, one-note appeal of California navels: blood oranges are in season at Tarry Lodge. Ruby-hued and tangy, this spicy native Sicilian is Talia Shire to Diane Keaton in the Godfather—beautiful, wild, sometimes sour, but never dull. In his $5 antipasti, Executive Chef Andy Nusser frames the ruby orange sections with lightly pickled (yet crisp) fennel and a soulful aged balsamic vinegar. Sweet, tart, and a little bit untamed—this is our idea of fun in the Italian sun.

Tarry Lodge 18 Mill St, Port Chester (914) 939-3111;