Like devilled eggs, devils on horseback are having a moment in the sun, with restaurants like The Spotted Pig and Freemans offering versions of the vintage hors d’oeuvre. The dish starts with prunes that have been filled with blue cheese, which are then wrapped in bacon strips before being baked until crisp. True, these things are ugly—and no amount of mesclun can fix that—but they’re also sweet, and salty, and just the thing to pair with a drink. Check these ugly devils out at Tuckahoe’s new Growlers Beer Bistro.
