Pizza traditionalists may scoff when they take a gander at Coals’ oval-shaped pies that are grilled above gas jets. But don’t judge a book by its cover (or dough by its cooking method). The style is influenced by Providence, Rhode Island, pizza joints and is a must-try for any pizza enthusiast. The dough, which has cornmeal and whole wheat in it, is a bit reminiscent of naan bread and has a slender crust, charred on the bottom. The thin dough can’t bear much heft, so the toppings, like a flavorsome tomato sauce made with San Marzano tomatoes, are dappled on. Pies to order are the Rustic (Fontinella, fresh mozzarella, roasted mushrooms, truffle oil, Grana Padano, and garlic); Pure Bliss (fresh mozzarella, ricotta, tomato, basil pesto, Pecorino); and the Dean Martin (Fontinella, fresh mozzarella, tomato, pepperoni, Pecorino).
131 Parkway Rd, Bronxville (914) 337-1901; www.coalspizza.com; there is another Coals in Port Chester.