A familiar scene in my abattoir Tuesday prep kitchen consists of my cooks hustling around the kitchen trying to accomplish more than we are actually capable of. I follow them around arbitrarily announcing whatever is on my mind, spewing a collection of new culinary conceptions and a list of things we need to work on to ensure efficiency and infuse nuance. Despite my annoying presence while dealing with the trials of Tuesday – all the deliveries, the empty walk in box and s!#% piling up everywhere – they’re still all ears and readily involved. In fact, they know I’m looking for their reaction and ultimately their instinctual culinary input. Why? That’s what they’re here for. There here because they want to be a part of something unconventional, cook with great energy and test their skills.
In the midst of this cavernous freak show there is some kind of gastronomically perverted dish about to take shape. We all figured that winter is upon us so we would have to cast a special that would warm the bones like the soft touch of a woman, but holster enough balls to be cookery equipped. With all the worthy attention drawn to “nose to Tail” cooking and me being an extreme advocate of it we decided upon a Bolito Misto. Yes, boiled mixed meat. But what kind of meat you ask? Well everything from nose to tail, a!# to mouth, whatever you want to call it. My Sous chef began with hen legs, I retorted with veal tail, Beef tongue was verbalized (pun intended), then of course the proverbial short ribs for the sticks in the mud bound by convention.
All the meat would simmer together in a natural love bath of chicken stock, vegetables, potatoes and herbs then equally portioned in there tender glory and served piping hot in a bowl. The whole dish would be topped with a gremolata made from horseradish lemon, olive oil and parsley to freshen the richness of the boiled meats and produce a vibrant spicy finish. Join us at The Cookery this weekend to celebrate Bolito Misto “nose to tail”. My wine recommendation would be a 2007 Chardonnay, Vorte Sante-Sanoma Coast, California. Believe it or not, this buttery white wine grips the fattiness of the tender simmered meat and accentuates the flavor of the light broth and spice from the chili.
Also rearing its head this weekend will be everyone’s long overdue favorite, The Stinco. Yes that’s right a whole veal shank for two melting off the bone, dripping wet from an aromatic juice comprised of root vegetables, white wine and rosemary. There are only a few of these due to oven space so I suggest coming early. My wine recommendation would be our 2005 Amarone, Barini- Veneto, Italy. The Stinco is full of rich meat and big flavor redolent of earthy sweet root vegetables and desires a big red wine that compliments it.