Despite a population just north of 4,000, Armonk packs a healthy number of worthwhile dining options into its quaint downtown. KOKU Japanese, since opening early last year, has further enhanced the hamlet’s dining status.
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The 80-seat restaurant bills itself as modern Japanese, which means there are plenty of global influences (blue-crab fajitas, an organic basil chicken entrée, sushi rolls with ingredients like truffle kimchi sauce or steamed Canadian lobster) and that classics like tempura and teriyaki, while available, are a minor part of the menu. The spicy edamame, amped up by shichimi togarashi (a seven-seasoning spice mixture) and topped with Parmesan, is an addictive starter; the grilled black cod, marinated for a day in golden-yellow, mildly sweet saikyo miso, reaches the rarified “fifth taste” umami.
Sushi, heavily represented in the form of 16 signature rolls, platters, and à la carte sashimi/hand-roll selections, is marvelously presented. Partner Eric Cheng is a lifelong sushi fan. “I want to bring New York City-quality sushi to the burbs,” he says. “I grew up in Hong Kong and started eating sushi when I was 5 or 6; it’s always been a passion of mine.” To this end, he uses top Japanese fish suppliers, like USA Seafood in Brooklyn.
The décor is “classy Zen,” with brick walls, a curved walnut overhang above the sushi bar, onyx marble bar, and a lot of muted browns, whites, and grays.
454 Main St, Armonk 914.730.0077; www.kokujapanese.com