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Anthony’s Deli’s sandwich, The Godfather, stuffed with almost every cured meat you can think of, makes us almost too full to eat the accompanying pickles.
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In the two hundred-plus years since the sandwich was named, or so it’s presumed, for English nobleman John Montagu, the Fourth Earl of Sandwich, it’s had various incarnations, morphing from its role as a lowly brown-bag lunch item into something akin to a gourmet meal. I’m talking about the overstuffed sandwich: the two-fister stacked so high with assorted meats, cheeses, and veggies that you can split it with a friend, grab and go to your kid’s soccer game, or store it in the fridge for leftovers. From old favorites to new classics, here’s a guide to some of the county’s most filling—and delicious wedges.
When you’re I-could-eat-a-horse hungry, head to Anthony’s Deli (619 Halstead Ave, Mamaroneck 914-698-4998), where the folks dare you to finish The Godfather, a massive culinary creation with more meat than bread. Think salami, pepperoni, ham cappicola, proscuitini, mortadella, sopresatta, provolone, hot peppers, lettuce, and oil and vinegar, served on fresh-from-Arthur-Avenue bread ($8.25).
The lunch counter on the fourth floor at Bloomie’s known as Forty Carrots (241 Main St, White Plains 914-684-6200) isn’t the first place you’d think of for a killer turkey sandwich. But the Turkey Eastsider, loaded with thin-sliced turkey breast, lettuce, tomato, Alpine Lace low-sodium Swiss cheese, and Russian dressing and served on organic seven-grain bread, is pure decadence ($11). Whatever you do, save room for Forty Carrots’s famous “Frogurt,” swirling mounds of low-cal goodness in plain, coffee, or chocolate.
At Cravings (549 N State Rd, Briarcliff Manor 914-944-4622), there are the usual suspects—turkey, tuna, and chicken—and then there’s the one-inch thick Spa Tuna sandwich made with dried cranberries, apples, lemon juice, and light mayo on your choice of sourdough, whole grain, or wrap ($6.95). This cozy spot also is known for its tossed salads—get your greens to go in a Greek salad pita or a Cobb wrap.
The combo egg salad/BLT (number 14) at East Avenue Café (2 East Ave, Larchmont 914-834-1632) offers the best of two classics: egg salad, bacon, lettuce, tomato, Russian dressing, and a fistful of sprouts on your choice of bread, a marvel in proportional mastery ($5.95).
Kosher delis are known for super-sizing their sandwiches, but Epstein’s Kosher Deli (2574 Central Ave, Yonkers 914-793-3131) stuffs the competition. In business since 1953 (in the Bronx) and in its Westchester location since 1973, it’s nothing to look at, but boy, how we love the food. On a weekend morning, nothing beats the Smokey Joe: Nova lox, whitefish salad, egg salad, lettuce, tomato, and onions served on thin rye ($14.95). (Note: There’s another Epstein’s at 387 N Central Avenue in Hartsdale with a similar menu, but different owners.
It’s the mayo that makes the sandwiches at Fat Joe’s (8 John Walsh Blvd, Peekskill 914-739-9447), where owners Joe and Bonnie Agosta and chef, David Bardari, pride themselves on their homemade mayos, including horseradish, chipotle, cranberry, roasted garlic, and habanero. Try the Grandpa Jim: roast beef, mozzarella, and horseradish mayo.
Picking a favorite at Frank’s Food Court (349 E Main St, Elmsford 914-592-9560) is like picking your favorite child: you like them all for different reasons. And yes, that includes our very own Westchester Magazine panini (chicken cutlet, prosciutto, provolone cheese, romaine lettuce, sundried tomato pesto, and mayo) for $8.60. Also popular: Frankie’s Taco Supreme Wrap: taco meat, cheddar cheese, rice, guacamole, lettuce, tomato, and sour cream ($7.75).
Into veggies? The Iron Tomato (57 Mamaroneck Ave, White Plains 914-328-9400) can grill, sauté, or wrap any kind you want, starting at $5.99. Number eight—eggplant and prosciutto—starts with dense eggplant fried to chewy lightness, topped with strips of prosciutto, and balanced with mozzarella and broccoli rabe on a bastone ($10.75). The Iron Tomato also offers cold cuts, including homemade roast beef.
Sometimes it’s the low-key, uncomplicated things in life that attract you. Which is why the roasted turkey sandwich with its layers of fresh meat on rye is a favorite at Lange’s Little Store (382 King St, Chappaqua 914-238-3553), rumored to be one of Bill Clinton’s faves. An optional layer of mayo with lettuce, cheese, and tomato, and you have an homage to the simple life ($5.95).
The lines at lunchtime are often out the door at Tarrytown Delicatessen (350 S Broadway, Tarrytown 914-631-9622), which tells you something: it’s affordable and worth waiting for. Go for the Italian: ham, salami, pepperoni, provolone cheese, and roasted peppers on a fresh tortilla with pesto spread and green leaf lettuce ($5.49). Add a garlic pickle for pure heaven.
I grew up spending Sunday afternoons eating oversized corned-beef sandwiches with my family, and Kisco Kosher (230 E Post Rd, White Plains 914-948-6600) brings it all back: the assorted cold cuts, the gorgeous Nova, and two-fisted burgers. But the king of kings remains the triple sandwiches. In a Mad Men mood? Go for number 21, the brisket, pastrami, and turkey ($13.95).
Rooster’s Market (48 Gedney Way, White Plains 914-949-7202) is a quaint White Plains neighborhood market where you can pick up milk, flowers, and produce while also grabbing The Nooche: chicken cutlet with provolone, prosciutto, mesculin, roasted peppers, and balsamic vinegar and oil ($6).
There’s a full pound of meat on the Rye Ridge DeliExtravaganza at Rye Ridge Deli (126 S Ridge St, Rye Brook 914-937-2131), a combination of corned beef, pastrami, turkey, and salami with Russian dressing and coleslaw ($20.99). It’s even too much for two hungry teenagers, though perfect for leftovers.
Melt Down
Melt Sandwich Shop (277 Mamaroneck Ave, White Plains 914-358-1364) is in a category by itself. Known for its slow-roasted and char-grilled sandwiches, it’s pure bliss on your choice of bread, starting at $6.50. Try the ancho chile brown-sugar brisket-and-mushroom combo or the rosemary Dijon pork loin.
Larchmont resident Jeanne Muchnick spent her Baltimore youth eating bologna and corned beef with her family every Sunday after Hebrew School, and still has fond memories (and occasional cravings) for a large triple-decker on rye oozing with mustard and coleslaw, despite the fact that she now counts her cholesterol and calories.
