Let’s clear something up: Just because a restaurant makes pizza, doesn’t mean it should make pasta. In fact, in Westchester’s Italian-heavy dining scene I’ll go so far as to say there are quite a few places that shouldn’t have pasta on the menu. Places where the pizza is good – even great – and the pasta is, well, not. Burrata is not one of those places.
Chas Anderson’s Eastchester pizzeria makes our favorite Neapolitan pies that emerge from the gold-tiled, wood-burning oven with thin, crepe-like centers and puffy, blistered crusts. Everything from the New York State flour to the San Marzano tomatoes from a cooperative in Southern Italy are carefully sourced. Here’s the kicker: the pastas are just as good.
“It’s all fresh pasta,” says Anderson, who honed his pasta-making skills in Emilia-Romagna (in case you’re not familiar, it’s the pasta capital of Italy). In keeping with the traditions of the region, Anderson prefers “filled pastas and rich sauces.” Case in point: sumptuous cappelletti filled with supple buffalo’s milk ricotta, slick with butter emulsion. A sprinkling of n’duja-spiked breadcrumbs adds some textural contrast and a gentle burst of heat. Short-rib-filled agnolotti are coated in brown butter and piave cheese and drizzled with aged balsamic. There are also classics like spaghetti with San Marzano tomatoes, and rigatoni with Hudson Valley duck ragu that showcases local products.
At Burrata in Eastchester, the fresh spaghetti is served with a bright sauce of San Marzano tomatoes, local basil, and garlic.
As with his pizza, it’s the ingredients that make the dish – right down to the organic flour. “For the longest while, flour was just a commodity on the shelf,” says Anderson. “Now, more and more people are paying attention.” We’ll be paying attention in the future too, as Anderson plans to start making pasta with flours milled from ancient grains. Pretty sure they’ll be delicious too.
Burrata Wood Fired Pizza
425 White Plains Rd, Eastchester
(914) 337-3700; www.burratapizza.com
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