Restaurant Preview: Único

It’s hard to say exactly what the cuisine is at Único in Hartsdale. Angolotti, fresh pasta with a smooth filling of duck confit and ricotta, served in duck broth with a touch of cream and shiitake mushrooms, would be perfectly at home in a fine-dining New American restaurant. Dishes like blue-crab dip baked in half an avocado and seared-tuna tostada evoke more of a Mexican-beach-shack vibe. Tiger shrimp, tos-sed in garlic butter and flambéed with brandy, have a Spanish tilt; white-wine-steamed mussels feel more French; and tangy fried goat cheese drizzled with local honey could be considered farm-to-table. The spiced lamb meatballs come with chayote, pistachio, and mint, a combo that straddles the culinary boundaries of Mexico and the Middle East.

Fried goat cheese with local honey.

“I always tell people that we do international food,” says Chef Brian Sernatinger. A Pleasantville native, he’s cooked everywhere from Craft in Manhattan to Spain and Mexico, where he opened the original (and still operating) Único in Tulum in 2013. “Everywhere I worked, I learned different cuisines and different dishes,” he explains. “It’s become part of my cooking style. I just make things I like to eat.”

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Sernatinger runs the restaurant with his wife, Deyanira, a Mexican artist who created the mural — a man in a chef’s apron with a lion’s head, drinking a glass of wine — that anchors one side of the restaurant. The cocktail list also draws inspiration from Sernatinger’s travels, featuring not-too-sweet red sangria and a Mayan Margarita made with pineapple and jalapeño.

10 N Central Ave., Hartsdale

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