Something to celebrate at Benjamin Steak House PHOTO BY CATHY PINSKY |
Go on the right evening, and you’ll have porterhouse expertly cooked PHOTO BY CATHY PINSKY |
Yet, on a subsequent visit, this same kitchen got every detail right on the crispy, golden-crusted lump crab cake. Sweet crab was all we saw and tasted; whatever held together those tender morsels together did so magically. We hoped that magic would appear again on our steaks…
We had shockingly different experiences with steak on different visits. Was the kitchen off one night, or lucky the other? Our first steak was the porterhouse for two, which we asked for medium rare. The enormous portion of meat (enough for three or even four) is served, à la Luger, cut into strips on a large platter, and the waiter divvies it up to the two diners. It had been charred on the outside, and only two small pieces on the platter were showing anywhere near enough pink to be called medium rare. The rest of the meat was medium to well done. On that same visit, Norwegian salmon was slightly dry, but its inherent flavor came through.
But wait! On our return visit to Benjamin, the heavens parted and the culinary gods smiled down upon us. Our rib eye was buttery, beefy, juicy, and perfectly rosy in the center, as a steak ordered medium rare should be. A thin crust of light char lent smoky depth of flavor. On that same visit, an enormous double-thick veal chop was equally flavorful and juicy, and also served cooked exactly as ordered. And our steak fries that night were crisp on the outside and creamy inside; broccoli was bright green and crisp-tender.
Was this the same restaurant that had served us “cottage fries” that seemed like flaccid potato chips, German potatoes like re-heated home fries, and a plate of poorly trimmed asparagus? Perhaps that was all just a bad dream.
We will think, instead, of that lovely evening when everything seemed to align just right, and which ended with a slightly tangy, sweet, and yielding cheesecake.
Benjamin Steak House ★★ 1/2
610 W Hartsdale Ave, White Plains
(914) 428-6868
Hours: lunch, Tue to Fri 12-4 pm; dinner, Sun to Thurs 4-10 pm, Fri to Sat 4-11 pm
Appetizers: $9.95-$18.95; entrées: $32.95-$41.95; desserts: $9-$11
★★★★—Outstanding ★★★—Very Good
★★—Good ★—Fair