Fans of Mogan Anthony’s Locali Pizza Bar & Kitchen in New Canaan no longer have to cross the Connecticut border to curb their Neapolitan pizza addiction. A second location of Locali moved into the Mount Kisco Metro-North station earlier this month, where Executive Chef William Eschner has expanded the menu in a big way. In addition to fire-kissed pies, Locali MTK features six pasta dishes and nine meat or seafood main plates.
Let’s take a closer look at what’s up.
Photos by Andrew Dominick
Noticeable from the jump is the striking interior of the station house; exposed brick walls, a hardwood ceiling, and large windows all contribute to the ambiance. A few focal points of the 80-seat restaurant are the pizza oven that’s embedded in the wall near the kitchen, and the bar with a front-seat to passing trains. Expect four rotating draft lines (more in cans and bottles), a very Italian wine selection, and cocktails that include a suitably strong Manhattan on tap.
At a place where pizza is king, you might be surprised to find that a good portion of the menu is gluten-free. Even the meatballs, made with a blend of short ribs and pork belly, have zero gluten. Vegetarian? Fear not! There are plenty of veggie-friendly options, too, including a spaghetti “Bolognese” that carnivores will fall for.
Photo Courtesy of Locali Pizza Bar & Kitchen
Longtime Locali customers, take a deep breath. The favorite pies — Pretty “Kale” Leopard (buffalo-milk mozzarella, pecorino Sardo, pesto, crispy kale), the spicy 3AM (San Marzano tomatoes, pepperoni, smoked mozzarella, Calabrian chili, garlic), and the Snake Oil (San Marzano tomatoes, capicola, fior di latte, pecorino, garlic, sriracha, honey, scallions) are all still here. Another favorite, the clam pie, is one of the best seafood pies around.
A few newbie pies include the Gladiator, a bacon-egg-and-potato pizza suitable for any time of the day, and the Calabria S25K, which turns up the heat with ’nduja, jalapeños, garlic, ranch dressing, and slightly piquant scamorza cheese.
New pastas include shrimp scampi oreganata, al dente spaghetti with a pungent pop of parsley butter (basically a version of pesto) and crunchy breadcrumbs on top.
A classic chicken parm, pounded thin, breaded, fried, and tossed in the oven to marry with marinara and mozzarella is also on the menu. Other mains include cioppino, wood-fired branzino, a massive pork chop Milanese, veal osso buco, grilled NY strip with crispy potatoes, and a roasted half chicken.
Because Locali is housed in an active station house, it’s required to be open in the morning and throughout most of the day. Besides the aforementioned BEC pie, Chef Eschner gave us a few hints at what breakfast and lunch might include. “Think spicy eggs in purgatory, breakfast pasta/carbonara, coffee to-go, and some kind of breakfast sandwich,” he says. “For lunch, subs, melts, and maybe we’ll see a burger. Maybe.”
Locali Pizza Bar & Kitchen
2 Kirby Plzâ€‹
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