Photography by John Bruno Turiano
Plates in Larchmont is one of those sophisticated adult dinner-only places—except on Sundays during their BBQ Road House Brunch. Granted, Chef Matt Karp keeps things as refined as possible, but barbecue is, at its truest, fatty, salty, filling, and so not dignified. But sometimes getting your fingers (and chin and mouth) messy while you eat is a good thing.
Case in point: the brilliant pastrami Reuben described on the menu as “Old School, Real Deal, We cure and smoke here.”
The sandwich starts with house-made pastrami from the outdoor smoker behind the restaurant; the meat is the perfect balance of lean and fat. It’s layered on grilled house-made bread with Russian dressing, provolone, sauerkraut, and sweet grilled onions. If you’re in an especially indulgent, cholesterol-be-damned mood, order everyone’s favorite Canadian import, the poutine—that’s French fries with cheese curds and brown gravy for you Maple Leaf haters. How many calories is all this? Who cares. If you dine with a person who asks about calories when eating barbecue, don’t ever eat barbecue with them again. And throw a cheese curd at their head.
“The Reuben gives me the chance to marry our smoked pastrami with my Eastern European heritage,” says Karp. “I like the balance of spices and just a touch of fat.”
If you’re not a pastrami fan, there are many other delicious house-smoked choices including pulled pork, brisket, and ribs, plus house-made coleslaw, house-made waffles, house-made ice cream—getting the trend here?
121 Myrtle Blvd
(914) 834-1244; platesonthepark.com
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Photo by Julia Rodbell
Barbecue sampler platter with house-smoked ribs, brisket, and pulled pork.
Poutine with brown gravy and cheese curds; New Orleans broiled oysters with brown butter Hollandaise sauce.
Housemade waffle with ice cream trio.
Photo on left by Rosemary Mancino
Chef Matthew Karp; the smoker behind Plates.