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What is it about deconstructed food that fascinates us? Without an original frame of reference, it’s just a bunch of ingredients; with one, it deconstructs our expectations themselves, making us rethink an item we’ve become familiar with. In any case, take the cannoli—or take it apart, as does Artuso Pastry in Mamaroneck (outpost of the Bronx institution). They cleverly package it in a single-serve, two-level cup whose bottom contains cannoli “flats” for dipping in the chocolate-chip–covered cannoli cream residing in the cup’s removable upper level. It’s fun to fool with the proportions (and am I mistaken, or does separating the elements make it feel less fattening than a big ole regular cannoli?).
In another, less portable configuration, a plate of vanilla or chocolate cannoli flats is served with cream in your flavor of your choice—take note, that includes pumpkin!—to eat at the table. Traditionalists, regular cannolis can be stuffed to order; if you can handle it, rock your world with peppermint, lemon, or espresso. Or just have a Nutella cappuccino.
Artuso Pastry
270 Mamaroneck Ave
Mamaroneck
(914) 630-7880; artusopastry.com