Warming Peruvian Chupe at New Rochelle’s Coolest New Boite, Cienega

New Rochelle continues its quiet restaurant revolution with the opening of chic bijoux like Alvin & Friends and Cienega. The latter, opened by a stylish, husband-and-wife partnership of architects, is almost too good-looking: we feared that its high style might be strictly FOH. Happily, our fears were quashed with a parade of fabulous dishes that included this mellow gold—a Nuevo Latino take on chupe, Peruvian seafood chowder. Imagine a deep, warm bowl of shrimp, onions, corn, Parmesan, and a poached quail’s egg, resting in a creamy, saffron-soaked broth that slips just the right touch of burn. Mmmmm…just what the doctor ordered.

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