Oh, yes, folks—the time of soft-shell crabs is here. The blue crabs, which are newly molted, live in bendy edible shells that promise briny flesh without all the usual fussy picking. Their shells are only flimsy for a short while; soon, each morsel of sweet, mild flesh will be paid for with picks and scraped knuckles a la Maryland crabs. But right now, you can eat these crabs almost entire, chitinous shell and all. You’d better act fast—those shells are hardening as we speak. Run to Farmer and the Fish where we found this deep fried version, the ideal starter before a classic New England crab boil.