Summertime calls for something cold, sweet, and creamy, preferably nestled in crunchy cone. And that’s exactly what Mikey Dubb’s is scooping up — only don’t call it ice cream. What you’ll find at this yearling establishment, located between a pizza joint and a Starbucks on North Avenue, is frozen custard, a delightfully different dessert (or lunch — hey, life’s short!).
What exactly is it? “All frozen custard is ice cream, but not vice versa,” explains owner Michael Weissman (the “Dubb’s” stands for the W in his last name). “Frozen custard has much less air than normal ice cream, only about 20 percent air by volume, so it’s about the same density as gelato. And unlike ice cream, it has a tiny bit of egg yolk in it. You don’t see it or taste it, but it gives a silky consistency.”
And while it might be new to you, frozen custard actually turns 100 this year. “It started in Coney Island in 1919 and then was introduced in the Midwest in the 1930s. It has never left the Midwest, but in the New York metropolitan area, it has kind of died out,” Weissman says. He first fell in love with the treat while visiting his daughter in Chicago. “I kept asking myself why we couldn’t get a really good frozen custard back here,” he recalls. Finally, he decided to leave his job as a commodities trader and attend Scoop School (yes, that’s a real school) in St. Louis, where he learned how to make frozen custard himself.
The end result of Weissman’s efforts? An ultra-creamy confection with a velvety mouth feel. It doesn’t so much melt as gently spread across your palate, bathing it in lusciousness. And while frozen custard is refreshingly cold, the egg yolk allows it to be served at a temperature slightly warmer than that of ice cream, meaning it won’t give you a big old brain freeze just for taking a taste.
And you’ll want to take a lot of tastes. Weissman uses premium ingredients and makes his own waffle cones (traditional wafer cones are available too), which means that even vanilla will tickle your taste buds silly. Along with resoundingly rich chocolate — both are available daily — expect a couple of flavors of the day. On one visit, a bright and punchy espresso was available, plus mint Oreo; the calendar of upcoming flavors is available on the website.
There are 20 toppings on offer, as well, all of which can be spooned over your custard. If you prefer, they can be added to your frozen custard in a blender and given a whirl, creating a sundae so thick it’s called a concrete. Should you want to go out on a limb, ice cream sandwiches with homemade cookies are made to order, as are shortbread sundaes with homemade shortbread, and scoops of frozen custard atop freshly made Belgian waffles.
Of course, there may be someone out there who prefers lighter fare. For those folks, there’s a large assortment of fresh Italian ices, plus vegan frozen desserts and Açai bowls. But oh, that custard.
1282 North Avenue
Curious for more insight into everything from weddings and local business happenings to golf and hearty Westchester eating? Surf through all of our daily blogs.