Photo by Cathy Pinky
The roasted loin pork chop topped with foie gras is an indulgent entrée choice
Photo by Cathy Pinky
Cashew-crusted calamari in a spicy citrus glaze is a starter worth ordering
But truly, this is not a restaurant to visit when eating “light” is on your agenda. For one thing, any such intention will likely dissolve at the appearance of the superb (twice-fried) French fries and/or fried red onions (thin, perfectly crisp onion rings) at your table. If you were to order either dish only once in the next year, this would be the place to do it.
It should come as no surprise that several dishes were as heavy-handed with butter as others were with salt. Happily, a special of pan-seared gray sole with lemon-butter sauce was not one of them. The sauce showed just enough restraint to allow the sweet, mild fish to star. Less happily, a side dish of red and golden beets (listed on the menu simply as “root vegetables”) tasted of butter and little else.
On two occasions, meat was not cooked as ordered. While that is an egregious mistake, it is well worth noting that the meat itself was so richly flavorful, in both cases the diner chose to continue eating it. Besides, by that time in the evening, our servers were far less available. An enormous T-bone steak was cooked more than requested—but boy, was it tasty! It was tender enough and juicy, with that big, fat, beefy flavor of a T-bone-eater’s dreams. Tuscan-grilled filet mignon, on
the other hand, was cooked less than requested—and more flavorful than is customary for this cut. It was served with (salty) grilled shrimp and lobster béarnaise—very Mad Men-esque.
Chunks of lobster were also in the mashed potatoes accompanying bland Arctic sea bass—the potatoes were far more appealing than the fish. Meat dishes seem to be the real strength of the kitchen. We’ll take that gargantuan, tender, juicy, roasted loin pork chop Rossini topped with sautéed foie gras over the odd special of sautéed scallops on butternut squash ravioli with brown butter sauce any day. The scallops just never connected with the ravioli—as two separate dishes, we might have been happy with either one, but the combination felt forced.
With portions as big as they were, and must-have side dishes of french fries and onion rings, perhaps it is divine justice that desserts were eminently skippable. But if your meal is not complete without a sweet ending, the molten chocolate cake is serviceable: it is a dessert you’ve had a million times before, sometimes executed better and sometimes worse. But be warned: We tried the balsamic strawberries with pound cake twice—and twice choked on the acidic unreduced vinegar that overwhelmed every other ingredient in the dish.
It seemed odd that a restaurant with some spectacular dishes and just a few misses couldn’t do better with dessert. Frankly, though, by the time dessert comes around, it is likely your jeans will feel a little tight.
Club Car Restaurant-Lounge 3.5 â˜…’s
1 Station Plz, Mamaroneck
(914) 777-9300; clubcarny.com
Hours: lunch, Tues to Sat 11 am-3 pm; dinner, Tues and Wed 5 pm-10 pm, Thurs 5 pm-11 pm, Fri and Sat 5 pm-midnight; late-night menu, Fri and Sat 11 pm-4 am
Appetizers: $10-$15; entrées: $16-$38; sides: $8; desserts: $8
â˜…â˜…â˜…â˜…—Outstanding â˜…â˜…â˜…—Very Good