The funny thing about Passover is that while the Seder meal is literally scripted, many elements — from the seder plate to the Haggadah readings through the hidden afikomen — enjoy ample flexibility. Fortunately, that flexibility extends to wine. Here are some tips for optimizing the wine selection for the Passover table.
Don’t sweat the details of what makes a wine Kosher; the most critical distinction is higher standards of supervision. (Since when was that a bad thing?) Quality and variety have never been better. Many Kosher wines are from Israel, but they are made (well) all over the world. Bartenura Moscato from Italy and Goose Bay Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand have earned shelf space year-round.
Exemplary wines are also coming from California (Baron Herzog), Tuscany (Cantina Gabriele), Rioja (Ramon Cardova), and all over France. Proof that kosher winemakers are keeping pace is seen in the increasing array of both dry rosés and creative blends.
The Gilgal 2021 Galilee Blanco — a snappy blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Muscat Canelli — will please a spectrum of white-wine fans. And the brand new 2022 Mount Hermon Red blend from Golan Heights Winery delivers juicy, ripe fruit amid a food-friendly texture.
When it comes to the meal proper, Passover is not unlike Thanksgiving with its a veritable riot of flavors. Brisket, the traditional choice, can swing wildly in preparation. Whether sweetish or savory, the final dish will be rich — which calls for a red on the big side. I concur with David Gellman, manager of Seasons Kosher market in Scarsdale, who suggests Cabernet Sauvignon or Syrah.
Perhaps the best way to complement —and compliment— a favorite brisket is to splurge a bit. Yarden Cabernet (about $50) can hold its own with its peers. Other reliable high-end labels include Covenant, Petit Castel, Recanati, and Segal.
Related: Memories Wine Is a Passion Project for This Westchester Resident
