If you are looking for authentic offerings of traditional Ashkenazi foods, you have many wonderful options in the 914. What qualifies a dish as Jewish is somewhat of a mystery, wrapped in a kreplach. For some, it is associated with a generational memory or family custom. For others, it relates to a Jewish holiday or festival.
Luckily, when you’re craving a slice of tender, juicy brisket or a nourishing bowl of matzo ball soup, you don’t need to consult your calendar or wait for a celebration. Simply go through this list and you will be sated all year long. We invite everyone to explore these wonderful temples to Jewish food, whether you are a “member of the tribe” or just someone who enjoys food that represents a delicious legacy.
Decoding kosher versus Jewish: There is a distinction between kosher food and Jewish food. Kosher foods follow the dietary laws of kashruth, with rabbinical supervision. This mindful practice of eating only food that is deemed “fit and proper,” the definition of kosher, is practiced by about 17% of Jewish people, most commonly those who identify as Orthodox. Not all establishments presented in this article are kosher; those that are will be noted.
The deli is a good place to start, as some view it as representing the epitome of Jewish food.
Westchester only has two kosher delicatessens. The newest addition to the scene is Liebman’s in Ardsley, which is the second location of the Bronx original. Started by Joe Liebman in 1953, the deli has been a bastion of matzo ball soup, knishes, and smoked meats for more than 70 years. The deli was taken over by Joseph Dekel in 1980, and in 2002 by his son, Yuval, a gregarious, former heavy metal drummer-baker and Ardsley resident. Yuval has taken Liebman’s pride and Dekel’s joy and delivered a spanking new outpost to Westchester residents.
Brightly lit with eye-popping artwork and a cool vibe, this addition to the county food scene has been welcomed with open arms and loose jaws. Diners come ready to sample the mile-high corned beef, brisket, tongue, and pastrami sandwiches with a sour pickle on the side. I schmoozed with a table of four Bronx boys, and I use that term generously, who grew up with Liebman’s. They sang the praises of this “everything old is new again” eatery, expressing that, aside from its delicious offerings, this deli is an extension of Jewish heritage, memories, and culture. A table of moms hanging out in this new spot shared a forkful of Liebman’s legendary coleslaw with me and said they welcomed having a new neighborhood place to grab a quick bite, sit, and talk. A young teen who waited patiently in line said she doesn’t keep kosher but loves the history behind the food. Her father noted the quality of the food and the pervasive Jewishness add to the appeal of a kosher deli.
Yuval says he finds that “folks here just want everything,” and he means that in the best way possible. “They come in with a list and sigh — and then they order a lot.” Yuval aims to elevate the experience, for example, bringing in seasonal vegetables such as spring ramps to accompany his entrées, including stuffed peppers, tongue Polonaise, or classic meatloaf. “Vegetables at a deli shouldn’t be like hospital food,” he says. To further chef things up, he renders the schmaltz and uses the crispy chicken skin (gribenes) to add texture to the chopped liver along with a sweet, jammy onion marmalade that completes the dish. He features Middle Eastern specialties such as falafel and mezze and offers a full range of appetizing and house-made knishes, all of which can be dine-in or takeout. It’s not just the easy commute that encouraged Yuval to open this location. He wanted to bring the rich Liebman’s tradition to his current hometown. Despite the long days (he clocked more than 110 hours the first week the deli opened), Yuval is delighted to bring “a small sliver of Jewish cultural humanity” to a new community and generation.
Matzo Ball Mania
The sign of a true matzo ball soup experience is when the matzo ball is so large that it causes the soup to overflow when you try and tackle it in the bowl, which is always too small. That was the case with the excellent bowls of soup sampled for this food travelogue.
Looking for a superior bowl of soup should lead you to Epsteins of Hartsdale, a family-run kosher deli that’s been feeding those who crave homemade matzo ball soup since 1969. The soup has the perfect balance of sweetness from the slow-simmered vegetables, and the fluffy matzo ball could feed a family of four.
Rye Ridge Deli’s matzo ball soup is a meal too, as the chunks of vegetables and pieces of white and dark meat chicken swim beside a light and airy knaidel (Yiddish for matzo ball) the size of an orange. It is rich and satisfying. A surprise entry in the matzo ball arena might be Mt Kisco Diner, but it should not be overlooked. Its matzo ball soup deserves the attention it gets from regulars, and those in the know order it for takeout when the holidays roll around. The broth has a great depth of flavor, and the chicken and vegetables are bite-sized and delicious.
The Ball’s Origin Story: Matzo balls were first made in Eastern Europe when bakers collected the crumbs from the matzo they baked and frugal cooks incorporated them into what we know as matzo balls.
Kosher Market Gems
What’s the opposite of a niche business? Some would say that describes Seasons in Scarsdale. There is nothing related to kosher food and good food in general that you cannot find at this one-stop-shop addition to the Westchester Jewish food experience. The meat case overflows with pristinely cut and trimmed offerings, and the produce section always features the freshest fruits and vegetables, hand-selected daily at the Hunts Point Produce Market. Produce Manager Eli Gilden explains that for his kosher patrons, having Seasons in Scarsdale means they don’t have to travel 45 minutes or more to the city to enjoy an array of kosher products. But many of the store’s patrons are not kosher or even Jewish, he says. They are just looking for excellent quality displayed beautifully.
A bonus is Season’s charitable endeavors, as trucks line up daily to cart away its extra produce. The store supports several local charities, including Hope Community Services. Next time you need a scoop of one of the county’s best tuna salads, kosher fish that was swimming just hours ago, or a hard-to-find shelf item, look no further than Seasons.
For a more intimate experience when shopping for kosher meat, head to Sammy’s Kosher Market in Bedford Hills and talk turkey with butcher and owner David Perlow. Speaking of turkey, Perlow proudly states that he too services not only kosher clientele, but sells more than 50 kosher turkeys every Thanksgiving to his non-Jewish customers. For more than 25 years, Perlow has brought beautifully prepared kosher meat, poultry, and assorted shelf items to the Bedford and Mount Kisco area. He emphasizes: “It’s always nice to have a kosher butcher shop in a Jewish community; it’s a good thing.” His customers are “looking for freshness, and everyone knows there’s nothing better than kosher poultry.”
Kvelling for Kosher Chicken: What makes a kosher chicken so flavorful? Long before people were brining their chicken, kosher laws dictated the chicken needed to be treated with salt and a thorough bath to remove impurities. So, your kosher chicken comes brined and ready to roast.
Bagel and a Schmear: Morning Magic
Sunday mornings were never the same once Jewish immigrants brought the bagel to America. They helped to popularize cream cheese, which provides the perfect schmear. Now bagels are ubiquitous. But the perfect bagel can be elusive. Not so for lucky Westchesterites, who can find a bagel spot in nearly every shopping center. That’s not to say all bagels are created equally. For a good crust and the perfect chew, look to Bagel Power in Scarsdale, where the hand-rolled bagels have just the right texture. The assortment of flagels — the love child of a bagel and bialy — come in interesting flavors studded with fresh seeds and toppings. The shop is strictly kosher and accepts cash only, so come hungry and with pocket money. Wondering what two non-Jewish Lakeland boys would know about making bagels? The answer is “a lot.” JV Hot Bagels in Jefferson Valley and Baldwin Place is a perennial favorite. The bagels are always fresh, and the store’s selection of cream cheese — from jalapeño to walnut-raisin — adds intrigue to the typical schmear. You can smell the yeast in the air when you enter Mount Kisco Bagels, and that’s a very good sign: It means the dough is rising before baking, and the bagels are baked fresh all day long. The bagel makers also cook up creative sandwiches utilizing more than a dozen bagel varieties. A kid favorite is the kaleidoscopic rainbow bagel, sporting eye-popping effects from food coloring.
Lox Lore: In the late 1880s to early 1900s, Jewish immigrants brought the tradition of smoking fish to America, and none has been more integral to making the duo of bagels and cream cheese into a triumvirate than the addition of smoked salmon lox. The immigrants of yore turned the adjective “appetizing” into a noun and a destination. In Westchester, you can get freshly smoked salmon at The Original Mount Kisco Smokehouse where lox, herring, whitefish, and sturgeon are smoked in-house to perfection.
Raise a Glass, L’chaim!
Looking for a buzzy way to wash this all down? Head straight to your local wine store and pair any of these offerings with a good bottle of kosher or Israeli wine. What makes a wine kosher has little to do with the grape and everything to do with the process. Rabbinical supervision, equipment that handles only kosher items, and fermenting that involves only kosher ingredients are essential. Today almost every wine store features a kosher section, but here are some standouts.
Siemers Wine and Spirits in Bedford is a family affair, and its legacy of good taste is evident in carefully chosen kosher wines. The store not only sells the requisite Manischewitz but also has a variety of premier Israeli and Argentine (a fabulous cabernet) wines, and a worthy French Bordeaux. Family member Jen Sperazza, a former chef and recipe tester, says Manischewitz makes a great addition when braising your brisket. Another standout is Rolling Barrel in Hartsdale, which has taken the time to curate not just kosher wine, but a full selection of kosher spirits and prosecco. The selection is impressive, and the display is less fussy than your typical wine store but very user-friendly. Westchester Wine Warehouse in White Plains features an expansive selection, and its easy-to-navigate website directs you to Meshuval, kosher vegan, gluten-free, and wines with no sulfites. From Oregon’s Willamette Valley to the Golan Heights, the store’s selection is intoxicating.
Kosher Crazy Prohibition: During prohibition, kosher wine was all the rage as the sacramental use exempted it from the Volstead Act. This wine was commonly bootlegged and found its way into speakeasies across the country.
Funny, you don’t look Jewish…Looking for Jewish food in unexpected places? Try the decidedly not kosher pastrami or corned beef Reuben at Little Cabin Sandwich Shop in Cortlandt Manor; the perfectly braised brisket at A&S Marketplace in Mount Kisco; the just-sweet-enough gefilte fish (gluten-free available by special order) at Mt Kisco Seafood; or the best Hanukkah doughnut at Galloway’s Bakery in Scarsdale.
Sweet Spot
I’ve never met a Jewish-food lover who doesn’t have a sweet tooth, and for those who prefer to eat dessert first, you are in luck. Westchester boasts some wonderful bakeries turning out terrific interpretations of Jewish cookies and cakes. There’s nothing incidental about By the Way Bakery, where owner Helene Godin practices some form of sorcery to make her confections dairy-free, gluten-free, and certified kosher. When asked why she went that restrictive route, she says: “Being a niche business, offering a better product to a narrower niche was a good business model.” Her Hastings-on-Hudson community agrees as they devour her signature Jewish delights, such as rugelach with raspberry or chocolate, coconut macaroons, and award-winning almond cookies. When looking for a varied and creative menu for the holidays, or any day, head to Bedford Village Pastry. This bakery boasts an owner, Gonzalo Forero, who started as a dishwasher at the bakery, worked his way up to baker, and is now the proprietor. His sons, Abraham and Leandro, proudly carry on the tradition of turning out exemplary Jewish pastries, including Sarah Bernhardts, which are dramatically delicious, and marzipan rainbow cookies with just the right amount of almond flavor. A mainstay in the kosher baking scene is White Plains Bake Shoppe where Lee Kaufman and his wife-owner Jeanne have been turning out kosher confections for 25 years. Lee is quick to say that having a kosher bakery “keeps traditions,” and he enjoys doing it “old-school” style. Anyone who has tasted the bakery’s seven-layer cake, has torn a chunk off their challah, or sampled their chocolate babka would agree. In search of the yin-yang of Jewish cookies, look no further than Cerbone’s Bakery in Rye Brook, where the black-and-white cookies and the variety of hamantaschen (sold year-round) are divine. Under kosher supervision, it is also a nut-free bakery and specializes in preparing sugar-free options as well. You don’t miss a single ingredient when you taste the cookies and cakes. And there’s no need to wait for Purim to enjoy buttery hamantaschen when you can get everyone’s favorite triangular cookie any day of the week from Seth Greenberg’s Just Desserts. The treats are overflowing with either chocolate, apricot, prune, or fig filling and just the right crunch to make a sound louder than a Purim grogger. You might even learn how to make them yourself by taking a baking class with owner and baker Seth Greenberg, who carries on the proud legacy of baking begun by his father and iconic NYC baker William Greenberg.
Cookie Tales: Ironically, the cookie most associated with American Jewish culture is the black-and-white, which is not a Jewish creation. It was a riff on the half-moon cookie popularized in upstate New York by Hemstrought’s in Utica. It began showing up in Jewish bakeries across NYC — and the legend was born.
June Hersh, a Bedford resident, is a food writer and author of six books, including Food, Hope & Resilience, Authentic Recipes and Remarkable Stories from Holocaust Survivors; and Iconic New York Jewish Food, a History and Guide with Recipes. Her focus is food history and preserving Jewish food memory. Learn more at junehersh.com.
