The deftest restaurants ply their trade around human pleasure centers, and at Lolita’s, these guys are going right for your core. Imagine Proustian clouds of pale green cotton candy, all warm and fluffy from the spinner, scattered with a constellation of retro, ruby red Pop Rocks. Its arrival cushions Lolita’s sticker-shock – it’s a freebie that precedes the check – and as the spun sugar liquefies in your mouth, the Pop Rocks add sizzle. It may not be fine dining (and I think Michael Pollan would be appalled), but this dreamy dessert is joining Plates’ Ring Ding as our favorite grown-up take on childhood passions.
