By Leslie-Anne Brill
Market North
https://twitter.com/mktnorth
Cuisine: House-made, locally sourced light dishes, pastries, and market goods
Breakfast: $9-$11; lunch to begin in mid-August
If you’ve ever had the pleasure of dining at Restaurant North—rightly described as “farm-to-table” without a hint of boredom or irony—you know to be excited about the opening of Market North across the street. Chef Eric Gabrynowicz and restaurant co-owner Stephen Mancini have branched into this bright and lovely market/cafe selling locally sourced ingredients (some house-made, some culled from the region) along with light dishes prepared by the same team, with a few tables in front and a communal table in back, next to a large open kitchen.
Scour the shelves for provisions such as house-made pickled ramps and margarita salt, Blooming Hill Farm fermented garlic powder and heirloom carrot powder, Mimi’s dried and smoked African fish peppers, Walter’s mustard, and Wölffer Estate vinegar.
Feast your eyes on a table replete with daily-changing homemade pastries—croissants, snickerdoodles, meringues, energy bars.
It’s just salted-and-peppered avocado atop the crisped, olive-oil-drenched bread of the day, but I am still dreaming about it.
Cold smoked organic lox, sprouts, crème fraîche, pickled gherkin, hard-boiled Paisley Farm egg, and scallion
A display case of specimens from the breakfast menu also holds provisions such as Sprout Creek Farm cheese and Meillers Farm bacon.
If you’re going to have a bacon, egg, and cheese sandwich, drive out of your way to get Bubba’s Breakfast Sammich: two Paisley Farm eggs, thick house-cured bacon, and mozzarella curd clinging to a brioche bun.
Two Paisley Farm eggs, raw vegetables, carrot hummus, and harissa
Described by one of the chefs as an underrated dish made with an underrated grain, wheat berries from Wild Hive Farm are cooked with salt and pepper, just enough butter and olive oil, and graced with thinly sliced carrots and radishes and a smattering of kale—hearty, healthy, and delicious. The market sells a number of grains from Wild Hive Farm in Clinton Corners, NY, praised by the New York Times and Food & Wine.
House juices and smoothies include a blend of vegan protein, roasted sweet potato, sheep’s milk yogurt, flaxseed, and coconut water.
Sit down and relax with Colombian or African coffee. The group next to me, conferencing around open laptops, intermittently praised the food while plotting their corporate takeover.
