Aarón Sánchez’s Paloma In Stamford, Connecticut, Puts A New Spin On Latin Fare

If the Food Network chef connection doesn’t excite you, there’s still the grilled meats and lively waterfront atmosphere to draw you in.

Sip a cocktail infused with the spirits of Central and South America—including pisco, tequila, mezcal, cachaca and rum—while you wait for a table. Paloma’s dinner menu offers that raw bar, plus small plates, entrées and steaks-for-two.

Paloma's bar and dining room.

Spoon out some umami-rich essence cradled in the roasted bone marrow small plate, which hardly needs the pickled mustard seed dip, but goes nicely slathered on the accompanying tortillas. The chorizo empanadas are overshadowed by a mole sauce that charms with cocoa spiciness.

The entrées, however, are where those kitchen skills shine, particularly anything that needed grilling. The grilled strip steak’s smoky, charred crust encases a flavor-packed tender middle, and the braised short ribs might have an anchovy-cocoa rub, but its no-fork-necessary tenderness accompanied by whole carrots and potatoes conjure the cooking of an Irish pub on a cold night.

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Camarones mojo de ajo.

Braised short rib

Dulce de leche churros.

Ask the servers if they have dulce de leche churros for dessert, which resemble doughnut holes more than the long, ridged fried-dough pastry of Spain. No matter. Rolled in sugary cinnamon with a sweet milky dip, this fried dough is a delight.

Paloma
15 Harbor Point Rd
Stamford, CT
(203) 998-7500; palomagrill.com

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