First, forget every watery, canned-tasting, and decidedly un-chicken-y, version you’ve ever had. China White’s egg drop soup is another thing entirely. It starts with a haunting broth, at once lightly colored and richly flavorful, into which whipped raw eggs are stirred until they form noodle-like tendrils. The thick, resulting mixture is splashed with sesame oil and studded with perfect scallion hoops—it’s hot, silky, and oddly familiar (and like its Italian cousin, stracciatella, absolutely delicious).
