Where Less is More A neighborhood place in Mamaroneck serves an impressive array of French bistro classics—without the hoopla. High rents, high prices, and the high-voltage lifestyle that goes with them are not generally good for cuisine. Instead of food that’s quiet and subtle, they tend to result in something flashy and overdressed. Everyone […]
Good & Plenty Le Jardin du Roi turns out fine French fare fit for king-size appetites. John Canaday, the late New York Times art critic who also reviewed restaurants back in the 1970s, used to regularly complain about portions that were “oppressively large.” C’mon, John, I used to snort, get off your high horse—how […]
