Photo courtesy of L’inizio
Make your reservations at these Westchester restaurants for the Italian Feast of the Seven Fishes on Christmas Eve.
Additional reporting by Melissa Kagan
Although Christmas Eve is when children ’round the world wait for the big guy in red to freefall down the chimney, back in the days of old in Southern Italy, December 24 was a time of commemorative waiting for the birth of Jesus Christ.
This more holy vigil, or La Vigilia, was observed by abstaining from meat and indulging in what was plentiful in the mostly poor region: fish. Today, the Feast of the Seven Fishes, historically starring dried, salted cod, or baccalà, prevails (though much more common among Italians here than in the old country), and Westchester’s seafoodies are giddy over the number of restaurants recognizing the tradition. But, here’s the catch: Reel in a reservation now, or you’ll have to wait until next year.
Bread and Brine
19 Main St, Hastings-on-Hudson; 914.479.5243
Less than 50 diners and just one seating is a party at this casual-chic fish house where the feast will be served family-style and the freshest under-the-sea options will be on the table. The meal begins with chilled starters, including oysters on the half shell, shrimp cocktail, and octopus salad, with a kale Caesar salad tossed in for good measure. To warm things up, the feast will move on to baked clams and fried calamari, plus a hearty, soul-soothing fisherman’s stew and zesty lobster tail scampi. For dessert, tiramisu. Oh, and the prosecco will be flowing.
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Fin & Brew
5 John Walsh Blvd, Peekskill; 914.788.4555
Breathtaking Hudson River views pair well with The Vigil, the five-course tasting menu by CIA-trained chef Jan Michael Anastacio that “celebrates Catholics from not just Italy, but all over the world,” with ceviche tartare and sushi to start, followed by lobster harache featuring king crab, scallop mousse, avocado, pickled onion, chili, and cilantro. Expect a third course of fish lechon accompanied by sticky rice and green papaya salad, and a fourth course of udon with scallop, fresh vegetables, coconut, and curry. For dessert, it’s cocoa mousse with kirsch cherry.
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The Greekish
273 Halstead Ave, Harrison; 914.732.3333
Small plates and stiff drinks are the thing at this hip and cozy meze and ouzo eatery where Chef Constantine Kalandranis puts together an in-house, four-course, seven-fish-inspired dinner featuring a chef’s selection of crudo meze to start, followed by a second course of crispy calamari or steamed mussels Loukaniko. The third course offers choices of sizzling octopus, grilled branzino, or shrimp spanakorizo. A chef’s choice meal-ending sweet will usher a delightful end to the festive, fish-focused feast.
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L’inizio
698 Saw Mill River Rd, Ardsley; 914.693.5400
Husband-and-wife chefs Heather and Scott Fratangelo cook with sustainable, artisanal, farm-to-table ingredients, including on Christmas Eve, when they’ll offer seven fishes seafood fusilli for takeout only.
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Mamma Francesca
414 Pelham Rd, New Rochelle; 914.636.1229
Located along New Rochelle’s shoreline, this purveyor of classic and contemporary Italian cuisine has been delighting regulars and newcomers alike and will aim to do the same on Christmas Eve with a celebratory menu of seven fish.
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ODO
72 Main St, Tuckahoe; 914.222.9248
At this intimate, downtown hotspot, where the emphasis is on quality ingredients and Old World Abruzzese cooking, Chef Nick Odoardi is planning a traditional, celebratory evening slated to begin with ensalata di mare (starring cuttlefish, calamari, shrimp, and bacala) and shrimp cocktail with Calabrian cocktail sauce, followed by sea-themed entrée choices ranging from zuppe di pesce for two and spicy shrimp vodka to classic and sumptuous baccala Livornese and a market fish oreganata.
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Purdy’s Farmer & the Fish
100 Titicus Rd, North Salem; 914.617.8380
After a decade of night-before-Christmas fish fests, this northerly bastion of farm-to-fork eating is making waves, once again, with an extensive prix-fixe menu that showcases a sea of fish. The festivities begin with family-style antipasti to share featuring crab cannoli (read that again), Shelter Island oysters, harissa-dusted Key West pink shrimp, a flatbread of manila clams and house-cured pancetta, truffled brie, and a fresh, blossoming Greek salad. The feasting moves on to the first course with choices of fluke crudo with fresh-picked salad offerings from the farm, Nantucket bay scallops with perigord truffles, and Maine lobster. Entrées include a choice of dishes like lobster and foie-gras-crusted Nova Scotia halibut, black sea bass, and whole-roasted turbot for four (must order ahead when making reservations!). Desserts run the gamut from sticky toffee pudding and chocolate mousse to a light and sweet citrus tart.
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